The Morgon is fabulously pure, an unfiltered, unfined, unsulphured turbid Gamay, and has something of the quality of what Keats described as “cool-root’d flowers”. The colour is on the dark side of cloudy ruby red, whilst aromas boom happily out of the glass, notably kirsch, rhubarb and sweet blackberries; there’s a more fugitive bouquet of warm earth, stones and dried spice evolving into dark chocolate and cinnamon.